Why Did Women Wear So Many Layers of Clothing in Pre-Modern Times?

Practicality and Absence of Marketing

Before the advent of modern clothing corporations and aggressive advertising, women wore multiple layers of clothing to survive harsh weather conditions, maintain comfort, and adhere to societal expectations. For example, a medieval woman might don up to seven pieces of clothing, including an undershirt, socks, hose, tunic, cape, and overcoat. This ensemble offered excellent protection against the elements and allowed her to maintain a comfortable temperature range from -5°C to 20°C in dry weather. The overcoat was designed to be worn without an additional cape, which could easily transform into a chaperon when necessary. Women could even layer a cotton tunic over a woolen overcoat to enjoy warmth between 0°C and 25°C, or the other way around by adding a cloak to expand the range from -10°C to 20°C. In contrast, modern fashion struggles to offer such modularity, except in the case of suits with vests.

Endurance and Comfort

The underlayers served another essential purpose: they provided durability to the outer layers. The sweat was absorbed by the undyed linen underwear, allowing the outer fabrics to remain untouched and clean. Regular washing of the underclothing ensured that the outer layers remained in pristine condition. This practice underscores the importance of practical design in pre-modern times, which prioritized comfort and functionality over modern aesthetics.

Adjusting to Different Seasons

Before global warming, central heating, and the advent of electric blankets, people relied more heavily on layering to stay warm. In cold climates, women wore multiple layers of garments, including woolen dresses and multiple undergarments. During warmer seasons, these textiles were replaced by lighter options. For instance, in warm climates, a woolen dress was substituted for cotton or silk, and a wool suit was replaced by a linen one. The use of natural fibers such as cotton, linen, silk, and wool was paramount, as they offered cooling properties in summer and warmth in winter. These materials were breathable and provided a comfortable barrier against elements.

Social and Cultural Factors

The practice of wearing multiple layers was not only practical but also influenced by social norms and cultural expectations. Women often wore multiple layers to adhere to societal norms and modesty standards. For example, the first brassiere was introduced in the late 1910s, replacing the necessity for stays and corsets. Before that, women would wear a cotton shift to shield their undergarments from sweat, followed by a camisole and petticoat to prevent the boning of the supportive garment from becoming visible.

End of an Era

With the advent of more comfortable and breathable synthetic materials like polyester, acrylic, and nylon, the era of multiple layers for women has largely faded. These artificial fibers are not as breathable as natural materials, leading to discomfort. Hoop skirts, bustles, and hip pads were popular trends that arose due to fashion but did not serve practical purposes. Today, most people rely on modern heating and cooling systems for warmth and coolness, reducing the necessity for layering as a means to regulate body temperature.